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Bait al Saifa, al Hamra, Muscat

Oman: Tanuf, Jebel Shams, Al Hamra
January 2022

Tanuf Jebel Shams Wadi Ghul & Wadi Nakhr Al Hamra
Wadi Nakhr, Oman

 

Atmospheric abandoned villages, a deep canyon in the mountains, and a spectacular wadi gorge.

Tanuf

Tanuf, Oman

 

About 20km north of Nizwa this ruined, mud brick village at the foot of Jebel Akhdar is gradually collapsing back into the landscape. It was bombed by the RAF at the request of the sultan during the Jebel War in the late fifties. The interior had risen up against the sultan in an attempt to be recognised as an independent state ruled by an Imam. The sultan fought back, not least because the country's oil deposits were being investigated principally in the interior.

Tanuf, Oman

 

Tanuf, Oman

 

It's a very atmospheric place which we had to ourselves as Kareem drove the car to the other side so that we could spend some time wandering.

Tanuf, Oman
Tanuf, Oman
Tanuf, Oman
Tanuf, Oman
Tanuf, Oman
Tanuf, Oman
Tanuf, Oman

 

Jebel Shams

Jebel Shams, Oman

 

The tallest mountain in Oman at 3009m, Jebel Shams means "Mountain of the Sun", because it is the first peak that the sun strikes at sunrise.

We drove up the mountain and walked along the rim of the so-called "Grand Canyon" of Oman, its steep cliff sides dropping over 1000m to the floor of Wadi Ghul.

Jebel Shams, Oman

It was extremely windy so we had to be very careful walking along the rim, though there is a fence along the edge some of the way.

Jebel Shams, Oman
Jebel Shams, Oman
Jebel Shams, Oman

 

Wadi Ghul & Wadi Nakhr

The abandoned village of Ghul, Oman
The abandoned village of Ghul.
The entrance to the wadi is on the right.

 

We actually drove along the floor of both Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr - Kareem, our guide, absolutely loves off-road driving and this was one of his favourites. It was another exhilarating drive!

The abandoned village of Ghul, Oman
The abandoned village of Ghul, Oman
Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, Oman

Wadi Ghul stretches north from the abandoned village of Ghul, morphing into Wadi Nakhr beneath the steep slopes of Jebel Shams.

Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, Oman
Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, Oman
The abandoned village of Ghul, Oman


Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, Oman
Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, Oman
We drove down through the gap here, and back up again.
Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, Oman
The guest house in the abandoned village of Nakhr.

 

Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, Oman

 

 

 

 

Huge boulders and soaring rock walls, 7km to the abandoned village of Nakhr. There used to be three families living here, now the houses have been converted into a guest house. Rather an odd place to choose to stay, but a really stunning canyon.

 

Al Hamra

Al Hamra, Oman

 

This is a very old village, nestling at the foot of Jebel Shams. The historic part of the village is still very much inhabited and when we visited we could see a lot of renovation going on.

Al Hamra, Oman
Al Hamra, Oman


Al Hamra, Oman
Al Hamra, Oman

Bait al Saifa is a three hundred year old house which has been beautifully restored and is open as a museum.

Al Hamra, Oman
Al Hamra, Oman
Bait al Saifa
Dishes of food are placed on the large circular mats at meals.
Al Hamra, Oman

 

A visit there was very interesting with explanations of the different rooms and demonstrations of traditional activities such as the using of domestic mill stones to grind grain to make flour, and how this is turned into the dough for flat bread.

 

Al Hamra, Oman

 

We had plenty of time to explore the maze of rooms, it would be quite easy to lose your bearings as one room opens from another in a very haphazard fashion.

 

 

Al Hamra, Oman

 


Al Hamra, Oman
Al Hamra, Oman

 

Al Hamra, Oman
Al Hamra, Oman
The weight of the date sacks forces the juice out of the dates. The juice runs out via pipes to be collected in jars or basins.
Al Hamra, Oman

 

Al Hamra, Oman
The house date store. Woven palm leaf sacks hold the dates.
Al Hamra, Oman