The Monument to the Discoveries

Arriving late in the evening at Lisbon airport, and with a long delay in getting our hire car, it was almost dark when we set off to find our hotel. We had a very difficult time in the one-way systems but eventually managed to arrive by homing in on the approximate area with the help of the instructions sent to us previously by the hotel, and parking and scouting on foot. The Hotel Lisboa is very comfortable, with a pleasant bar which serves snacks and excellent port.

The following day we took the supertram to Belém and saw for the first time the magnificent Monument to the Discoveries. Made in the shape of a caravel it was erected in 1960 on the banks of the Tagus to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator who is standing on the prow - or, rather, a representation of him is standing on the prow! Also represented are Cabral (discoverer of Brazil), Magellan and Vasco da Gama who opened up the sea route to India and set sail from Belém.

Henry did not sail on the ships but he stimulated the age of the discoveries by setting up a School of Navigation where the leading navigators, cartographers and seamen of Europe came to work. He was the third son of João and Philippa (of Lancaster - daughter of John of Gaunt) and was the Grand Master of the Order of Christ whose vast wealth Henry used to finance his maritime activities.

The Monastery at Belém - Mostero dos Jerónimos - was built as a tribute to Vasco da Gama's discovery of the sea route to India and is one of the few buildings in Lisbon to have survived the immense earthquake of 1755. It is a fine example of the very decorative Manueline style of architecture. We were very lucky to be there at an impromptu recital by visiting choir "Main Street Singers" - unaccompanied "choral" and very beautiful.

The Tower of Belém and the Maritime Museum

The Tower of Belém is a very fine example of Manueline - the only complete one in Portugal. It was constructed between 1515 and 1520 - the last five years of Dom Manuel's reign - to guard the approach to the harbour.

The Tower (right) sits virtually in the river, although at low tide the mud flats surrounding it are visible.

I prefer the Tower to the monastery - it is less elaborate and displays a Moorish influence - the architect Francisco de Arruda had previously worked on Portuguese fortifications in Morocco.

The Maritime Museum has wonderful Spanish Galleons - although for some reason the lifebelt underpants stick in the mind!

Left: the entrance ticket to the Maritime Museum

The Castle and Alfama district

The centuries-old castle stands high above the city, and a steep climb is rewarded by fine views from its walls.

The steep streets of the Alfama district lead down from the castle towards the Tagus. This is the oldest part of the city, and a very pleasant place to wander with its Moorish house and winding, cobbled, narrow streets- but probably quite easy to get lost in. Keep heading downhill and evenually you will hit the river.

Eating in Lisbon

Twice in our wanderings in the Belém district we had lunch at a riverside restaurant - Portugalia (below left) - which we thoroughly enjoyed. Tthe traditional dish of pork Portuguese style - with fried eggs - and house wine followed by chocolate mousse and coffee for two cost around 5905 Escudos.

We also had an excellent chicken and chips in a small restaurant in the Baixa - the lower part of the city and heart of the business district. Called Rei dos Frangos it sits just off Rua das Portas de Santo Antao in a small alleyway - don't be put off by the exterior - the people are friendly and the food superb. Spit roast half chicken and chips, house wine for two with pineapple in port for one - 2950 escudos.

But by far the best meal we had in the city was at L'Entrecote in the Chaido district, to the west of Baixa. Simple but superb steaks with chips and excellent wines. Served by friendly white-aproned staff in a beautiful high ceilinged, panelled room. Sorbets to die for. 11050 Escudos for two.

Sintra

A beautiful place for the summer residence of the Kings of Portugal 24km by car from Lisbon.

Our first attempt at visiting the Palácio National at Sintra was foiled by it being closed at Easter! It was worth a return trip though (and the queijadas - custard tarts - in the local Café Paris are certainly worth two visits) as it has interesting kitchens with big chimneys (the conical outlets you can see in the exterior) and lots of small interior courtyards with pools which must have been very pleasant retreats in the heat of summer.

Some people climb to the Castelo dos Mouros but I would have taken all day! We drove, and the views from the ruined walls are good - probably better on a clear day which it was not when we were here!

A ceramic representation of Sintra with Castelo dos Mouros above the town

Palácio da Pena

It is the exterior of this palace which we found to be the greatest attraction - maybe we were a bit tired of state apartments! The fantastical colours, turrets, and castellated battlements - with design reminiscent of the Moorish invaders - is worth a special trip.

Probably the best meal we had in Portugal was at Toca do Javali in São Pedro de Sintra. The wild boar is fantastic. 8710 Escudos for a two course meal with wine for two.

Along the Coast to Peniche

The coast north from Sintra is a beatiful drive, with fine views over the sandy beaches.

Peniche is a bustling fishing town with a rocky coastline. The fortress (below) was begun in 1557 and completed in 1645. It now houses an interesting museum, worth a visit for the cells, which once held political prisoners, and the underground water store for the fortress.

Batalha and Alcobaça

If you like very ornate architecture then Batalha (below left) about 120km north of Lisbon will be of interest. It houses the tombs of Dom João I and his wife Philippa of Lancaster.

Alcobaça, a Cistercian Monastery about 100km north of Lisbon, was founded in 1153 by Dom Henrique to celebrate victory over the Moors in 1147. Probably the best example of Portuguese Gothic, it has much more of interest in the interior than Batalha. The kitchens in particular (right), with their over-sized chimneys and sinks, are fascinating. The Monks' dining room has a curious narrow doorway said to test for obesity!

The dragon mouth descent into Hell on one end of the fourteenth century tomb of Dona Inês de Castro in Alcobaça Abbey Church

Napoleonic Battlefields

Between 1808 and 1814 the Iberian Peninsula was the setting for a series of military campaigns which culminated in the French Army being driven back across the Pyrenees by a British-Portugese-Spanish alliance. The Peninsular War is notable for the emergence of Arthur Wellesley as a great military commander. Although Wellesley's most celebrated victories over the French came in Spain at Salamanca (1812) and Vitoria (1813), the sites of earlier Wellesley victories at Roliça (1808) and Vimeiro (1808) are within easy reach of Lisbon by car. Fort São Vicente, one of the forward fortifications in Wellesley's defensive Line of Torres Vedras, is also worthy of a visit.

The Lines of Torres Vedras and Fort São Vicente

The series of fortifications known as the Lines of Torres Vedras were constructed at Wellesley's orders between November 1809 and September 1810 and provided a practically impregnable barrier stretching from the Atlantic to the River Tagus. The best-known remains of the Lines are those of the Fort São Vicente, just outside the town of Torres Vedras, 45km by motorway north of Lisbon.

Vimeiro

Vimeiro lies a short distance north of Torres Vedras and is a 60km drive from Lisbon, most of which is by motorway. The battlefield, where Wellesley defeated a French army led by Junot on 21st August 1808, is unfortunately in danger of disappearing under modern housing developments.

Left: the monument to the Battle of Vimeiro

Right: a representation of the battle in ceramic tile

Both in the memorial park overlooking the battlefield near the town cemetery

Obidos and Roliça

Obidos is a pretty, small town about 70 km north of Lisbon which was traditionally presented by the Portuguese kings to their brides. It has lovely views from its walls which are complete. It is possible to walk all around the walls but it is a bit difficult in places.

South of Obidas is the Battlefield of Roliça It is not easy to explore but one of the most accessible bits is the memorial to Lt.-Col. Lake:

SACRED
TO THE MEMORY OF THE HON
LIEUT COL G A F LAKE OF THE
29 REG WHO FELL AT THE HEAD
OF HIS CORPS IN DRIVING THE
ENEMY FROM THE HEIGHTS OF
COLUMBEIRA ON THE 17 AUG 1808
THIS MONUMENT IS ERECTED BY HIS
BROTHER OFFICERS AS A TESTIMONY
OF HIGH REGARD AND ESTEEM.