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St Ninian's Isle, Shetland

Scotland: Shetland - Old Scatness, St Ninian's Isle, Mousa
June 2021

Old Scatness & Eastshore St Ninian's Isle Mousa
Mousa Broch

More ancient history, stunning St Ninian's Isle and Mousa broch - best-preserved and tallest in Scotland.

Shetland pages:
Sumburgh Head, Ness of Burgi, Jarlshof

Old Scatness, St Ninian's Isle, Mousa
Lerwick, Scalloway
Eshaness, Stanydale Temple

Old Scatness & Eastshore

Old Scatness
Aerial view of Old Scatness.
Site information board.

 

The Iron Age site of Old Scatness was closed but we could see quite a bit from walking around the outside.

The site is still under investigation and, even when it is open, it is only at very limited times and with a guide on a restricted route. There are an awful lot of sandbags at this site!

Three structures exposed during the exploration of the site have been rebuilt to one side: a Pictish cellular building, a wheelhouse and a roundhouse. The roundhouse would be the oldest, followed by the wheelhouse and Pictish building.

 

Old Scatness
Reconstructed wheelhouse.
Old Scatness
The collapsed north side of the broch revealing a cross-section through the double wall. In total this was 5m thick, a staircase ascended within the cavity between the two walls.

 

Old Scatness
The remains of the broch are on the right.
Old Scatness
Old Scatness
The wall with niches is a later addition which cuts a wheelhouse in two.

The broch was built some time between 400 and 200 BC. It has the standard double wall surrounding a circular space which would have had a central hearth. There was a staircase in the gap between the concentric broch walls to reach upper floors. Often there were compartments between the walls at ground level.

 

Old Scatness
The double wall of the broch. The sandbags sit on top of the lower course of the inner wall which has a large recess filled with stones. As there is a staircase in the cavity to the left this must have once led to the interior of the broch .Running across the front of the image is the outer wall.

 

The surrounding wheelhouses are slightly later, around 100BC, again of typical design with walls projecting inwards from the inner wall of the building like spokes of a wheel, creating compartments around the inner edge.

The site was continually occupied for around 2,500 years.

Old Scatness
Old Scatness

 

Eastshore

Much less is left of Eastshore broch, reached via Durossness Boating Club. It is now right on the edge of the coast and has been severely eroded by the sea. So much so that we had great difficulty in spotting it!

Eastshore
Remains of the broch at Eastshore.
Eastshore
The storm beach at Eastshore.

The storm beach here is impressive though, a curved ridge of weathered stones.

Eastshore
The loose rounded stones, weathered by the sea, are extremely difficult to walk on.

There are atmospheric remains of lichen-covered buildings, probably fishermen's cottages.

 

Eastshore
Eastshore
Eastshore
Eastshore
Orange hawkweed.

 

 

 

St Ninian's Isle

St Ninian's

 

There are the most fabulous beaches on the tombola connecting Mainland to St Ninian's Isle.

St Ninian's
St Ninian's

We walked across and up onto the clifftops where there are wide views out to sea and along the coast.

St Ninian's
St Ninian's

 

St Ninian's
St Ninian's
St Ninian's

 

Mousa

Mousa
Mousa; the broch is the dark smudge on the shore to the right.
Mousa
Mousa

 

The small island of Mousa lies off the east coast of Mainland, approximately midway between Lerwick and Sumburgh Head, famous for its Iron Age broch. We took the little ferry from Sandwick, only 15 minutes on very calm seas.

Mousa

On the island we walked clockwise round the coastal trail with fine sea views all the way.

Mousa
Mousa
Mousa
Arctic Tern nest with a single egg.
Mousa
Mousa
Mousa

We passed an Arctic Tern nest (with one egg) that the RSPB had cordoned off as it was right next to the trail.

There was another one with two eggs in the same enclosure but further away from the trail so we didn't see that as visitors are asked to keep to the trail as much as possible, and especially to avoid disturbing nesting birds.

The Iron Age broch on Mousa is famous - the best preserved and tallest in Scotland.1

Mousa
Mousa broch.
Mousa
Entrance into the broch.

Built some time between 400BC and the 1st century AD, the outer diameter at ground level is 15.3m and the wall is almost 5m thick. The broch still stands to a height of about 13m, tapering to a smaller outer diameter at the top, and it is thought this is close to its original height.

Mousa
How the broch might have looked.
Site information board.
Mousa

The internal space is about 6m across and three oval chambers are set into the base of the massive dry stone wall, accessed from the internal space.

Just above three metres the wall becomes double-skinned, with six horizontal intra-mural gallery levels though which a staircase climbs to the wall-head. The gallery floors are made of long stone slabs which also help to tie together the inner and outer walls.

Mousa
Mousa
Water tank and hearth set into the broch floor.

The inner wall face is vertical and elongated apertures allow air and light into the galleries. These are sometimes called "stacked voids" and may also be a strengthening strategy as they are aligned over entrances to galleries and chambers and would help to relieve stress by reducing the mass of wall above the entrances.

Mousa

At ground level within the broch are a small hearth and a water tank, both created some time after the broch was first built. The people who lived here would almost certainly have been farmers, just like most people at this time.

 

Mousa

 

Mousa
Mousa
Gannets diving into the sea for food. We sat and watched them for ages.

Everyone was back at the dock quite early so the boatman took us on a little sea tour to see the broch from the water.

Mousa
Mousa

A porpoise followed us back for part of the way, appearing first on one side of the boat, then on the other. Very playful and impossible to photograph!

Mousa

 

References

  1. Statement of Significance - Mousa Broch HES Publications